Aerial photo of Guatemala
Destinations

Guatemala: The Latin American Country Where Maya Culture Prevails

Eva Sandoval

Eva Sandoval

September 26, 2024

8 min read

Guatemala—a small Central American country flanked by the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea—is an adventure seeker's paradise, home to thrilling lake escapes, stunning black-sand beaches, and Maya ruins lurking within lush green jungles. Thirty-seven volcanoes create a dramatic backdrop for candy-colored villages, where fuchsia sprays of bougainvillea drape whitewashed Spanish colonial architecture like a watercolor painting come to life. 

Lose yourself in bustling mercados, where you can score street food and rainbow-striped indigenous textiles, then explore Guatemala's nightlife and epic food scene. Helmed by young celebrity chefs, the New Guatemalan cuisine movement blends traditional Maya ingredients and techniques with international flavors, a testament to Guatemalan culture itself. 

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The country’s population is composed largely of Maya peoples, mestizos of mixed Maya and European descent, the Xinca (non-Maya Indigenous), and the Garifuna (mixed African and Indigenous). The result is a lively, syncretic culture and a Spanish dialect immediately recognizable by slang terms like cuate (friend) and cabál (exactly!). Guatemalans proudly call themselves chapínes, and orgullo chapín—chapín pride—is felt throughout the country. 

The land of eternal springtime

A volcano stands at the end of a street in Guatemala

Guatemala enjoys a mild climate year-round, earning it the nickname “el país de la eterna primavera”—the land of eternal spring. True to its moniker, it is a country in full bloom 365 days a year, its streets and landscapes teeming with colorful blossoms. 

Guatemala also has 360 microclimates, home to a staggering diversity of flora and fauna, including the quetzal—the bright green and red bird that has become the emblem of Guatemala, even lending its name to the country's currency. 

Guatemala abounds with mesmerizing natural oases, the most popular being Tikal National Park and the Atitlán Nature Reserve. Exploring Tikal National Park, you may encounter jaguars, ocelots, howler monkeys, coyotes, tapirs, armadillos, and iguanas, while the Atitlán Nature Reserve is a bird watcher’s paradise. If you’re lucky, a trip to El Biotopo del Quetzal south of Cobán may yield a peek at the eponymous bird. 

Visiting these areas with a local guide is strongly recommended. Exhibit caution and respect when encountering any sort of wildlife in its natural habitat. 

Tamales, recados, and world-class dining 

A person makes indigenous food in Guatemala

Traditional Guatemalan food, known as comida típica, originated when the country’s indigenous flora and fauna met European ingredients, resulting in a highly spiced cuisine based on recados (stews) like pepián, jocón, and kak'ik. At every meal, a bowl of creamy frijoles negros (black beans) is meant to be scooped up with floury-soft pan francés buns or corn tortillas. 

Tamales, often associated with Mexican cuisine, originated in Guatemala 2,000 years ago as cornmeal balls called wa'aj (food of the gods). Roughly 200 types of tamál exist in Guatemala alone, the most popular being the tamál colorado, a corn souffle stuffed with meat, capers, olives, and peppery recado steamed inside banana leaves. Sample Guatemalan dishes at a mercado, or hit the streets for a shuko, a Guatemalan-style street hot dog topped with guacamól. 

Guatemalan cuisine continues to evolve, its contemporary food scene concentrated mostly in Antigua, Quetzaltenango, and Guatemala City's Zona 4, a repurposed warehouse district now home to dozens of hip eateries. In Guatemala City's Zona 1, culinary anthropologist Rosa Pu serves haute K'iche fare, while elsewhere in the city chapín celebrity chefs like Diego TellesPablo DíazDebora Fadul, and Sergio Díaz helm high-end fusion restaurants, which made the Top 50 Latin American restaurant lists in 2022 and 2023. 

The seat of the Maya world 

Ancient ruins in Guatemala

Guatemala was (and still is) the seat of the Maya world, with a 5,000-year-old heritage that lives on in the country's awe-inspiring Maya ruins and 22 Maya peoples, who comprise roughly 50% of Guatemala’s current population. 

Hundreds of Maya structures have been discovered in Guatemala to date, featuring elaborate artistic elements. Tikal is by far Guatemala's most well-known (and heavily touristed) Maya city, notable for its massive, architecturally sophisticated pyramids constructed during the Classic period (250–900 CE) and located deep in the jungles of the El Petén region. Also in El Petén are the ruins of El Mirador, a late pre-Classic (2000 BCE–250 CE) city reachable via a five-day trek through a jungle brimming with monkeys, birds, and insects. More easily accessible are the post-Classic (950–1539 CE) fortress city of Mixco Viejo, with its well-preserved pyramids and platforms, and Iximche, with its sweeping plazas. Both Mixco Viejo and Iximche make a convenient day trip from Antigua. 

It's best to visit with a guide, especially for jungle treks. Alternatively, helicopter tours are a fantastic way to witness Guatemala's majestic Maya ruins without breaking a sweat. 

Volcanoes, volcanoes, and more volcanoes

A volcano erupts in Guatemala

Guatemala's 37 volcanoes were formed during the Holocene and Pleistocene eras and have played a major role in the country’s history ever since. There have been 21 deadly eruptions in the past 500 years, including the 2018 explosion of Volcán de Fuego, which killed 165 people and left many missing. 

Currently, Guatemala has three active volcanoes: Pacaya, Fuego, and Santa Maria. Tremors are a part of life, but locals refuse to live in fear; volcano hikes and camping are perennially popular, particularly up Tolimán and San Pedro—the volcanoes girding the magnificent Lake Atitlán—as well as Acatenango and Pacaya, located 30 miles from the colonial city of Antigua. Hiking to the top will yield jaw-dropping views of sea, mountains, clouds, and sky. Always check with local authorities before planning a volcano hike, especially on Pacaya, which sometimes closes to visitors due to spikes in volcanic activity. 

Even if you're not a thrillseeker, there are other ways to experience the magic of Guatemala’s volcanoes. Volcanic ash makes Guatemala’s soil especially fertile, so relish delicious native fruits like plantains, sapote (a tropical fruit), or granadilla (similar to passionfruit) in refreshing shakes, ice creams, or straight from the tree. Or sample traditional stews, salads, and tamales made with güisquil squash and zesty chipilin leaves. 

Relax on the black volcanic sand beaches studding Guatemala’s Pacific coast, including surfer’s paradise El Paredón or Monterrico Beach, particularly during green turtle nesting season between July and December. All can be done while admiring the majestic volcanoes themselves, hazily blue in the distance. 

Natural wonders and outdoor escapes

A lake in Guatemala

Guatemala's position on a fault zone between two major bodies of water has given rise to a breathtaking topography of volcanoes, mountain ranges, dramatic jungles, lush rivers, and peaceful lakes. The magnificent Lake Atitlán in Guatemala's southwestern highlands is actually a volcanic caldera, cradled by the three volcanoes—San Pedro, Tolimán, and Atitlán—as well as bustling Maya villages. 

Farther north in the highlands lies Semuc Champey, a 1,000-foot-long natural limestone bridge that arches over a series of caves, cerulean blue pools, and waterfalls, perfect for relaxing soaks or water sports like tubing. In the western Izabal department, Rio Dulce ("the sweet river") offers excellent sailing and cruising opportunities through pristine forestland studded with straw huts, while Cobán, the capital of the central Alta Verapaz region, is a thrilling rainforest retreat popular with glampers that teems with flora, fauna, and waterfalls. 

City breaks

Aerial photo of the coast in Guatemala

It may be tempting to spend your entire visit in Guatemala's spectacular outdoors, but there are also a number of vibrant cities to explore. Quetzaltenango, Guatemala's second-largest city, is more commonly referred to by its Maya name, Xela. Roughly 95% of its population is native Maya, and it's common to see locals wearing richly embroidered Maya textiles. Xela is home to imposing Neoclassical-style buildings, its markets and narrow lanes a street-food-lovers' paradise. 

Chichicastenango on the shores of Lake Atitlán is renowned for its lavish Maya and Catholic religious centers and technicolor architecture. By contrast, Livingston at the mouth of Rio Dulce has little in the way of impressive structures, but its vibrant Garifuna (mixed African and Maya) heritage creates a chill, Caribbean vibe. It is, to date, Guatemala's only Black community. 

Colonial times

A colorful row of houses in Guatemala

Of all the cities in Guatemala, the one non-negotiable is rainbow-colored colonial Antigua, located about 25 miles outside Guatemala City. 

Founded in 1542, Antigua became the third capital of Guatemala after the explosion of Volcán Agua destroyed the former capital, Ciúdad Vieja. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979, and today, its rows of squat, Easter egg–hued buildings, cobblestone streets, and butter-yellow Santa Catalina arch have become iconic images of Guatemala.

The city is admittedly very touristed, yet the vibe remains tranquil. Locals in traditional Maya dress stroll through the tree-lined Parque Centrál carrying woven baskets on their heads, and horses clop by art galleries and boutiques. Antigua has 30 exquisite churches and convents, like the opulent 18th-century Cathedral do San José in the Plaza Mayor and the Convent of Las Capuchinas, whose cloisters are blanketed in beautiful flowers. 

Beyond the building facades lie spectacular leafy courtyards full of bright tropical blooms and romantic stone and wooden interiors. In stark juxtaposition, this historic city is also home to some of Guatemala's best nightlife and hottest contemporary restaurants. 

Mercado lifestyle

Two women shop at a market in Guatemala

Guatemala has a vibrant mercado (covered market) culture. Sprawling labyrinths of stalls sell everything from tacos and tropical produce to T-shirts printed with the Gallo beer logo. Mercados draw tourists as well as locals, the latter of which bypass the artisanal souvenirs and head straight to the food stalls for a reliably delicious, quick lunch. 

The largest and most famous Guatemalan mercado is found in the lakeside city of Chichicastenango, known for its beautiful pottery and intricate colorful textiles. Visitors to the Mercado Centrál in Guatemala City's Zona 1 will find a thriving collective of food vendors, including the award-winning restaurant Doña Mela, a fixture in the mercado since 1960. Antigua has several solid mercados focused on artisanal wares, traditional Maya clothing, and textiles and carved wooden objects like masks. 

Mercados can be hectic, especially on weekends and around lunchtime. It's customary to barter for handicrafts but not food products. 

Good to know

Is Guatemala expensive? 

With the Guatemalan quetzal around 8:1 to the US dollar, Guatemala is generally reasonable for travelers on a budget. In Guatemala City and Antigua, two travelers can expect to pay an average of $80 USD a night for a standard-to-boutique hotel and around $20 USD for a bed at a hostel. Street food starts at $1 USD, while standard restaurant meals are around $15 USD. Budget around $50 USD per day for general expenses.

Best time to visit Guatemala

It's best to visit Guatemala during its dry, “spring” months, which run from November–April, as summers get very hot (hovering around 90 degrees Fahrenheit) and August sees a torrid rainy season. Semana Santa (Holy Week, the seven days leading up to Easter) is a joyful time to visit Antigua, which marks the season with colorful processions and elaborate floats, its cobblestone streets draped with exquisite woven alfombras (carpets).

What languages are spoken in Guatemala?

Spanish is the official language spoken in Guatemala, though 22 different Mayan languages, such as K'iche, are spoken throughout the country, as well as the two indigenous tongues, Garifuna and Xinca. English is widely understood throughout the capital and Antigua, mostly in the younger generations.

Guatemala with kids

There is no shortage of kid-friendly activities in Guatemala, like a visit to black volcanic sand beaches and strolling through the colorful mercados in Antigua and Chichicastenango. The sight of glowing red lava flowing down from Volcán Pacaya—which children can "climb" while riding comfortably on horses—will become an indelible childhood memory.

Guatemala public transportation

Throughout the country, there are inexpensive colorfully painted school buses called camionetas (translating to “chicken bus” in English), as well as the Transmetro and Transurbano bus lines. In general, though, Guatemala's public transit network lacks in resources, reach, and efficiency. Uber has arrived in Antigua and Guatemala City and is very cost effective, but you should always leave ample travel time in the capital; lack of government investment in widespread public transit has led to Guatemala City's major traffic crisis. Note: There are no public transport options at the airports.

Is Guatemala safe?

Guatemala ranks #103 out of 163, according to Vision of Humanity’s Global Peace Index. Decades of civil unrest and political corruption have cast a long shadow over this vibrant republic. As a result, Guatemala experiences a high level of crime, drug-related violence, kidnappings, roadblocks, and political demonstrations, so while tourists are very rarely affected, caution is advised at all times. Travelers would do well to avoid wearing expensive items and carrying backpacks through city centers.

Guatemala also ranks #100 with a score of 39/100 for LGBTQ+ equality, according to Equaldex's LGBT Equality Index. Same-sex sexual activity is legal in Guatemala, but LGBTQ+ individuals face cultural and political challenges. Acceptance is rising in the younger generation. 

Getting to Guatemala

More Central American destinations: 

Eva Sandoval

Eva Sandoval

Freelance Writer

Eva Sandoval is an Italian-Guatemalan-American travel writer and editor whose work appears regularly on BBC Travel, Lonely Planet, and Fodor's Travel Guides. Her family in Guatemala City knows to have a tamál waiting for her as soon as she steps off the plane. 


 


Published September 26, 2024

Last updated October 2, 2024

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