You Can Ride a Historic Wicker Toboggan Through Madeira

The carreiros’ white, pressed uniforms practically gleamed in the sunlight. Their straw hats—known as boaters—and shiny shoes topped off the outfits, which stood in contrast to the colorful backdrop of Funchal, the capital city of Portugal’s Madeira. Waiting in line, I watched as a couple ahead of me took their seats in the carro de cesto—a historic wicker toboggan that was about to take them down a 1.2-mile slope from the suburb of Monte to the capital down below. Their smiles matched the buzzing energy around them. 

Then the carreiros—the people tasked with driving the cart, two per toboggan—pushed it forward. The greased wooden runners began sliding down the steep tarmac while the carreiros, standing on the back of the runners, steered with their thick, rubber shoes, digging them into the ground to turn and slow it. 

I was witnessing a historic pastime that started a hundred years ago on the largest, namesake island of Madeira, a four-island archipelago located about 600 miles off the west coast of Morocco. 

In the 19th century, local workers would use the toboggans to make the 1.2-mile commute down to Funchal. In lieu of a long, arduous walk down the hill, the toboggans, which comfortably hold two riders at a time, served as a rapid down-hill transportation service. The 10-minute ride was known to reach speeds as fast as 23 miles per hour, whipping through the city. 

Legend has it that Ernest Hemingway found the toboggan descent to be the “most exhilarating” experience of his life. Although by some accounts, it was actually his wife, Mary, who described the toboggans so enthusiastically. 

Not only is this adrenaline-packed activity fast-paced and riveting, it also has its roots in an industry special to Madeira. The Camacha region, about 7.5 miles northeast of Monte, is located at altitude with ample water supply—the perfect environment for willow trees to grow. When willow trees’ branches are dried out, then boiled to make them more pliable, they become weaveable, allowing craftspeople to create wicker furniture and other goods. 

In the 1850s, Camacha locals began making everything from wicker, from chairs and baskets to toboggans. By the 1900s, toboggans were a common sight across the nearby town of Monte. Today, only a few wicker artisans remain on the island, and locals no longer use the toboggans to get from Monte to Funchal for work. While the wicker industry has lost its intensity, traditional toboggans are still made by the few remaining artisans on the island and serve as one of Madeira’s most popular tourist attractions. 

My own toboggan ride was one to remember. On my final afternoon on the island, I climbed into the toboggan under the heat of the Madeiran sun. I was bubbling with excitement. The toboggan felt rough against my skin while I held the side of the basket for emotional support. A cushion beneath me kept me comfortable as I waited in anticipation. A carreiro asked if I was ready, and in a split second, they pushed the toboggan forward, quickly gaining speed. 

The sound of wood against the concrete resounded as we made our way down one street and then another. I already knew that Madeira’s streets could be unforgivably steep, but sliding down the road in an open cart sucked the air from my lungs. I was gleefully terrified. 

We whipped past beautiful white buildings, the city passing us by. The wind swooshed past my ears. The imperfections in the concrete made for a slightly bumpy ride, though the toboggan handled the force of it surprisingly well. The carreiros steered silently behind me, occasionally digging their heels into the ground to make a turn. Before I knew it, I was at the bottom of the hill, grinning from the adrenaline, knowing I’d just experienced one of the coolest pastimes on the island.   

Getting there

• The toboggan ride begins at the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte church. While it is possible to fly directly into Funchal airport (FNC), you’ll likely have to connect through Lisbon (LIS). From Funchal, take bus 31A to the lower terminus of the Funchal cable car for a 20-minute ride. At the top of the hill, walk east for about five minutes to the church. If you’d prefer to forgo public transportation, taxis and Bolt (a rideshare service similar to Uber) are also available in this region.
• Average Going deal: $455 roundtrip

How to do it

• Best time to go: July to October is the most pleasurable time to be in Madeira due to the comfortable temperatures and mild weather. August is typically the warmest month, which is great for sun-chasers. Those who prefer to beat the crowds could also visit the region during the shoulder seasons in June or November. The toboggan rides run from 9am–6pm Monday through Saturday and 9am–1pm on Sundays, with the exception of public holidays. To avoid a warm cable-car ride up to the city of Monte, try to make your way to the toboggans first thing in the morning. 
• Cost: You can purchase a ticket upon arriving at the church in Monte. A single-person ticket costs €27.50, a two-person ride costs €35.00, and a three-person ride costs €52.50, though it might be a tight ride. 
• Tips and considerations: As a bonus stop, visitors might take a stroll through the Botanical Gardens, which are located at the top of the cable car route and just east of the toboggan ride. The gardens were established in the 1990s, and they feature an eclectic display of plants and artifacts from around the globe. 

More cool ways to get around

• Norway Flåm train
• Egypt dahabiya cruise
• Colombia cable car
• South Korea bike path
• Scotland West Highland Way hike
• Québec whale watching on a Zodiac cruise